Shift to Wealth | Issue 16

The Thirty Years Before the Pension Starts

I'm going to say something most financial newsletters can't afford to say.

Your pension is probably enough.

Run the numbers from Issue 2. A benefit capped at 81% of average final compensation, worth north of a million and a half as an asset. A full DROP that lands somewhere near a million. Chapter 175 money accumulating in your name the entire time. For a lot of members on this job, that combination covers retirement. Most Americans have nothing remotely like it, and nearly all retirement advice is written for people who don't.

So when somebody tells a twenty eight year old firefighter to save more for retirement, he tunes out. Part of the reason he tunes out is that he isn't wrong.

Here's what he is wrong about.

On paper, that same twenty eight year old is building a pension and DROP worth seven figures by the time he walks out the door. What he can't do at 32 is come up with $40,000 for a down payment. Every dollar in his picture is either an income stream that starts at 55 or an account he legally cannot touch until he separates from service. It is a tremendous amount of money built for a man who does not exist yet.

The thirty years in between is the part nobody plans for. It's also where the entire rest of his life happens.

Before Anybody Takes That the Wrong Way

I'm not telling you to stop contributing to the 457.

The retirement work that's left is real, it's just a different problem than you think it is. It isn't whether you'll have enough. It's how much of it the IRS takes on the way out, and what your wife's tax return looks like when she's filing it alone. Issues 12 and 14 were about that and there's more coming.

And "probably" is carrying weight in that sentence. Benefit structures get renegotiated. COLAs get trimmed. New hires land in different tiers than the guy who came on in 2004. A pension is the strongest financial asset most of us will ever hold and it is not carved in stone.

There's a second reason "probably" is carrying weight. That math assumes you’re actually living on what the department pays you, not on what the department plus a good side gig or your spouse’s income lets you live on. If a second income stream is part of how you afford your life right now, and none of it is going anywhere long-term, the pension replaces your fire department paycheck. It doesn’t replace the other one.

But the gap in a firefighter's financial life isn't at 70. It's at 34, when you need $40,000 and every dollar you own is either untouchable or sitting in a savings account earning nothing.

The Problem Nobody Names

Ask around the station and everybody saving for something big has it in a savings account. That's the standard advice and for money you need soon it's correct.

Here's what the advice misses. People save for things that get delayed.

The house you started saving for in year three happens in year eight. The wedding moves. The move waits on a promotion, then on a transfer, then on a kid starting school. Almost nobody hits the timeline they set when they opened the account. Not because they failed at anything, but because life doesn't run on the schedule you budgeted for.

So they plan on a two year timeline and live on a seven year one, and the money sits in cash the entire way, because the decision got made once for the plan and never revisited for the reality.

Issue 13 put a number on one version of that. A firefighter kept $35,000 in savings for three years waiting on a house that never happened and gave up roughly $12,000. The house didn't cost him that money. The wait did.

Here's the cost at a more ordinary scale. $500 a month, into a high yield savings account at 4% against the market's long run average of 10%.

How long it actually took

In a HYSA

Invested

What the wait cost

3 years

$19,100

$20,900

$1,800

5 years

$33,200

$38,600

$5,400

8 years

$56,500

$72,300

$15,800

Look at the three year row. Eighteen hundred dollars is a completely reasonable price for certainty. If you know you're buying in three years, take the savings account and stop thinking about it.

Now look at the eight year row. Same decision, made once, on a timeline that slipped without anybody choosing it.

The Question That Sorts It

The usual advice is a calendar rule. Under five years, cash. Over five years, invest. Fine as far as it goes, but it asks you to predict something you've already proven you can't predict.

Better question: can you move the date?

If the market drops 25% the month before you were going to buy, can you rent another eighteen months and be annoyed instead of hurt? Then it's a movable date and it can be invested. The house you'd like to buy in the next few years is movable. So is the boat, the truck, the renovation, the someday piece of land.

If you can't move it, it's cash and there's nothing to discuss. The baby comes in March whether or not the S&P cooperates. The lease ends in August. Tuition is due when it's due.

That's a better test than the calendar because it's about control rather than a guess, and control is what actually determines whether a bad market hurts you or just irritates you.

Most of what firefighters save for in their thirties is movable. Almost all of it sits in cash anyway.

Where This Account Sits

Be clear about what this is not. It is not your emergency fund and it does not replace one.

The order hasn't changed. Cash first, in a high yield savings account, three to six months of expenses, which is Issue 13. Then the Roth IRA, which is Issue 14. Then this.

Which raises the obvious question. The Roth IRA already lets you pull contributions any time, any reason, no tax, no penalty. Why not use that for the house?

Because the room never comes back.

The Roth limit is $7,500 a year and it's use it or lose it. Pull $30,000 of contributions for a down payment and you've permanently erased four years of tax free growth space. No catch up provision, no way to put it back. That money spends the same as any other money on closing day, and you quietly traded away a decade of tax free compounding to get it.

Issue 14 told you those contributions are reachable so you'd stop being afraid to fund the account. Still true. It's the fire extinguisher, not the toolbox. You want to know it's there. You don't want to plan around using it.

A taxable brokerage account has no contribution limit and no room to forfeit. Nothing about taking money out costs you future capacity. That's the whole argument for why the house money belongs here and not in the Roth.

What a Brokerage Account Actually Is

A lot of guys hear brokerage account and picture day trading, ticker symbols, somebody losing his shirt on options.

It's a regular investment account with no tax advantages and no rules. You open it at Fidelity or Schwab in about twenty minutes, move money in, and buy the same index funds you already own in your 457. Same VOO, same VTI. Nothing exotic required, nothing exotic recommended.

What makes it different from every other account you have is what's missing. No contribution cap. No age restrictions. No penalty for using it. No required distributions, ever. Nobody can tell you when to take the money or what to take it for.

That's it. The account with no rules, which is exactly why it fits money with no date.

The Tax Part, Honestly

You've already paid income tax on the money going in, so there's no deduction and no upfront benefit. That's the tradeoff.

You owe tax only when you sell, and only on the gain, not the whole balance. Hold something more than a year and that gain gets long term capital gains treatment, which for most people is 15%. Sell inside a year and it's taxed as ordinary income, same as your paycheck. The one year line is the only rule you need to remember.

Sell $30,000 where $7,500 of it is gain and the federal tax runs about $1,125. Florida takes nothing.

That also changes how you pick funds in here. Back in May I walked you through switching to a cheaper fund inside your 457. Inside the 457 or a Roth, that switch costs nothing in tax. In a brokerage account a switch is a sale, and if the old fund is up, you owe on the gain. So buy the cheap index fund the first time. Changing your mind later has a price.

Now hold that next to the 457 loan from Issue 15. Both pull $30,000 out of the market. Only the loan comes with a payment, a clock, and a balance that comes due if you leave the job or die.

Selling from a brokerage costs you about eleven hundred dollars and you own less than you did. That's the entire downside. No clause anywhere can turn it into something worse.

Funding It Without New Money

Nobody reading this has a spare $500 a month waiting for instructions. That's not where it comes from.

It comes from variable income, the overtime and detail pay your lifestyle already proved it doesn't need, because it only shows up some of the time. Once the emergency fund is solid and the Roth is getting funded, the next slice of that money has somewhere to go instead of dissolving into checking.

Issue 11 covered the mechanic and it applies directly. Fidelity and Schwab have routing and account numbers like a bank. Fort Lauderdale members can set up a split direct deposit in Infor under My Pay and route it themselves. The money lands in the brokerage before it ever touches the account you actually watch, which is the only reason any of this survives a slow month.

Here's what that builds at a few different splits, at the market's long run average.

Per month

5 years

8 years

10 years

$250

$19,300

$36,100

$50,400

$500

$38,600

$72,300

$100,700

$750

$57,900

$108,400

$151,100

Those numbers don't account for inflation. In today's dollars, the ten year column buys closer to $43,000, $86,000, and $129,000.

One More Thing This Turns Into

The account you open for a house at 32 becomes something else entirely at 58.

Once you retire, every dollar you pull out of the 457 gets taxed like a paycheck, stacked on top of your pension. Money from a brokerage account can come out in those same years at a much lower rate, sometimes zero. And if something happens to you, it passes to your wife on better tax terms than your 457 ever will. Each of those deserves its own issue, and they're coming.

The date test doesn't retire when you do, either. Once you're living on your own money, the question is the same one the thirty year old asks: what's coming in the next few years, and can you move it? If the pension covers your bills and nothing big is on the calendar, you may not need much sitting safe at all. If there's a monthly gap, a kid in college, or a roof you know is due, that money has a date on it, and it belongs somewhere boring, a stable value fund inside your plan or a money market fund in the brokerage.

Be clear about what boring buys you. After inflation, those funds mostly tread water. The Morley fund's ten year average of 1.48% actually lost ground to prices. Their job isn't to grow your money. It's to make sure it's still there when the bill comes, so the rest can stay invested through a bad market instead of getting sold at the bottom of one. That's why the May fees issue told you to get out of stable value for money with twenty years to run, and why it can be exactly right for money with a date on it. If you're in DROP, that sorting starts before you walk out the door, and an upcoming issue walks through it with my own account.

For now it's enough to know the account doesn't stop being useful when the house closes.

What to Do This Week

Write down what you're actually saving for and put a date next to it. Then ask whether you control that date.

If you do, and it's more than a few years out, some of that money belongs somewhere other than a savings account.

Open the account at fidelity.com or schwab.com. Twenty minutes, no minimum. Then call HR or log into Infor and find out whether you can route part of your check straight into it. If you can, do that instead of a transfer from checking, for the same reason your 457 works and the account you have to remember never does.

Start with one line of your overtime. Not the whole split, not a number that requires a conversation with anybody. Just enough that the account exists and something is moving into it.

Nobody is going to hand you a plan for the thirty years between now and the pension. Every piece of advice aimed at this job is about the part you can't touch, and the part you can't touch is already handled.

The house will happen when it happens. Something should be building in the meantime.

Talk soon.

If this was useful, forward it to someone at the station who's been saving for the same thing for four years. Or hit reply and tell me what you want covered next.

Written by a firefighter currently in DROP, sharing what I've found useful along the way. This is education, not financial advice. Statements about pension adequacy are general observations based on current Fort Lauderdale benefit structures and will not apply to every member, every department, or every retirement tier; benefit provisions and cost of living adjustments are subject to change through collective bargaining and legislation. Investment returns are illustrative and assume long run historical averages; actual results vary, and money you may need on a short timeline can be worth less than you put in when you go to use it. Stable value and money market funds are built to protect principal but are not bank deposits and are not FDIC insured. Capital gains rates, brackets, and the standard deduction are set by the IRS and adjust annually. Florida has no state income tax; members elsewhere should account for theirs. Talk to a fiduciary and a tax professional before making decisions specific to your situation.